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clearly indicated by visual cues. As chilies ripen, capsaicin
accumulates. While ripening, fish peppers progress from
white through green, orange and red. With four clearly
different stages of ripeness, electing to use them at a spe-
cific level of heat is more nuanced than with chilies that
only progress from unripe to ripe without any visible
intermediary stages.
Tabasco chilies are a well-known variety, although in
this case because Tabasco Pepper Sauce has made them a
kitchen and bar staple. Originating in Mexico, Tabasco
chilies are associated with Louisiana, where Tabasco sauce
is made, even though crops grown for Tabasco sauce pro-
duction are distributed around the world. Cultivation
away from Tabasco's base on Avery Island and even out-
side of Louisiana is a necessity, since rising water levels in
Louisiana are swamping land that used to be suitable for
farming. Tabasco chilies don't taste exactly like the sauce.
Fermentation of the chilies and use of Avery Island salt
also contribute to building the flavor of Tabasco sauce. At
30,000–50,000 SHU, these are hot chilies and best used
in small amounts.
Tabasco Pepper Sauce is often used to spice up a Bloody
Mary. Using chili flavor and heat without the vinegary
undertones present in fermented sauce increases the range
of combinations in which chili works well. Peach is trans-
formed from sickly to complex, with chili heat acting as a
foil for its sweetness. Lime zest makes a robust partner for
chili, well able to compete with hot elements, and its per-
fume tones enhances those present in mild habanero-type
chilies. Just as smoky whiskeys make use of barley dried
with peat smoke, a touch of smoke-dried chili like chipo-
tle can add depth to spirit and liqueur blends. Another
pairing of flavor that is not necessarily sweet is cacao and
chili. Earthy notes of chocolate are kept lively and well
away from cloying by chili's heat.
If you are adding chilies as an infusion or as a con-
centrated extract after distillation, also make use of the
natural color they can offer. Chilies come in every color
except blue. From white, unripe fish pepper, through yel-
low peppers, to more familiar green and red peppers, chili
color extends into pink, purple and near black. Cheiro
roxa are pink when immature, purple and about 60,000
Bolivian rainbow chili
